Photo Courtesy of Anita Ko
By Thomas Waller on June 10, 2019
This year’s Couture show saw buyers feeling energized by the newness at the show and while the Couture sees around 4,000 buyers and media walk the show floor, as designer Anita Ko put it, “The buyers come to see the show and mingle, and the orders…well, that comes later.“
As the Los Angeles-based designer sees it, the modern show model is about more than orders, “you are marketing who you are to the jewelry world; jewelry is such a personal and financial investment,” she explained. “You really have to come in with a strong point of view, and really show why you make jewelry, why you live this game. And finally, what you can offer your client.”
WWD spoke to retailers to see what trends they saw, what new designers stood out, and, most importantly, where they are putting their money:
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Jay Hartington, chief executive officer of Marissa Collections
What types of pieces have you seen your customer gravitate toward this past year? Our customers most recently lean toward layering pieces in gold and diamond. We have found a great opportunity to build multi-dimensional looks for our clients as they build their personal collection.
What were your favorite collections? Among the most notable this year were Irene Neuwirth (abundant color and carved flowers specifically), Nikos Koulis (new gold, diamond and enamel collection), Vram (innovative design and one-of-a kind use of color), Foundrae (continuing to expand on her tenets in such cool pieces), Anita Ko (new gold/diamond pieces that will be the next fashion classics), and Fernando Jorge (update to the Disco Collection in white gold). The common denominator among all of these vendors is that year after year their new collections are stronger than the year before.
Trends? The top trends that excited us from Couture were — Material: New innovation in enamel with a rainbow of colors available; Shape: Hoops creating sculptural interest for the ear; Styling: The continuation of layering jewelry
How many new designers did you buy? Not finalized yet, but four to six.
Are your buy/orders up from last year, down or flat? We had a very strong Couture to Couture so OTB (dollars) will be up from last year
Any additional thoughts overall? There is a great energy every year at Couture! This is the only show that Marissa Collections buys at annually because it is a one-stop source for established designers, curated new talent, and creative content groups.
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